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RETURN TO RUSSIA
This is my second journey to Russia with a repeat visit to Moscow and St. Petersburg. My first trip was three years ago after producing an international conference in Paris, but instead of the Tupolev flight on Aeroflot from Paris to St. Petersburg, I find myself on Air France from Los Angeles to Moscow via Paris’ Charles de Gaulle International Airport. This was a surprise trip for my traveling companion, Ruben, who didn’t know his final destination until about two weeks prior to the trip when a black Ushanka hat arrived at his doorstep signaling a journey to the great state of mother Russia. Images of Red Square, the Kremlin, and St. Basil’s Cathedral come to mind along with the stage magic of the dancers of the Bolshoi Theatre and the great arts of the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. In fact, one of the primary reasons for making this journey is a special performance of the opera Boris Gudanov in honor of the 150th Jubilee season of the Bolshoi Theatre.
I am on my third glass of champagne and the in-flight service has been most hospitable and gracious. I have a soft spot for the upper deck on the 747-400 series aircraft. I always feel like I am in one big living room with its intimate and quiet feel. Perhaps one of the highlights of flying Air France is the opportunity to enjoy great wines and cuisine worthy of a great restaurant in Paris. Our trip to Russia will include three nights in Moscow at the National Hotel, a quick flight to St. Petersburg for a special one night stay at the Grand Hotel Europe and the chance to dine at one of the city’s great restaurants. The trip will end back in Moscow with a short one night stay at the airport before flying home to the U.S.A.
We arrived in Moscow on schedule in the early evening and proceeded through airport formalities without a hitch, though the stern faces and eyes of the immigration officials beckoned a time of intense scrutiny of foreigners during the Cold War. What I find so fascinating about visiting Russia is the legacy of communism and all of the symbols of the State that are still so prevalent in modern day Russia. Whether you are riding the subways, which I highly recommend for their amazing art collections, exploring the lobby of a government building, or touring Red Square and the Kremlin, you will see the ubiquitous red star, sickle, images of laborers and the masses – the heroes of the communist state. These powerful symbols now coexist with those of capitalism and the fusion of the two make for fascinating contrasts as Russia projects a new image of itself.
We were greeted at Sheremetyevo Airport by our driver from the National Hotel who whisked us into downtown Moscow. It was Friday evening and in late November it felt like the dead of winter with snow lightly falling. I was so thankful that I purchased the Ushanakas and brought my best woolens and winter gear for this journey. The National Hotel is a magnificent architectural gem located right across from Red Square. We couldn’t have asked for a better location in the heart of this great city. The hotel boasts all the services you would expect in a 5-star hotel; complete with top-notch European and Russian restaurants, bars and an extensive business center. Our room was beautiful with a separate sitting area and a large bathroom fit for a king. The room featured high ceilings and furnished with wonderful antique pieces from the late 19th century. Another great surprise at the hotel is a complete fitness center and swimming pool located in the upper floors of the hotel.
Our first evening is with my friends Tracy and Kim at their apartment in the heart of Moscow. Prior to traveling to Russia, my friends presented a wish list of items impossible to find in Russia. The list included things like static guard and panty hose – all of which I bought in multiple quantities and thankful I was not stopped at customs and questioned. We met Kim at the hotel lobby and proceeded to flag down a taxi for the ride to their home. We learned very quickly that rides in Moscow come in all shapes and sizes requiring extensive negotiation prior to boarding. Fortunately, Kim spoke fluent Russian, so after a brief wait in the bitter cold evening, we jumped into a small sedan and made our way to their flat. Traffic in Moscow can be rather treacherous, especially downtown where cars fight their way to their destinations.
Tracy and Kim’s flat was surprisingly spacious with a loft area on a second level and it appeared to be larger than most Moscow apartments. The outside of the building left much to be desired and looked as though we were entering a dilapidated tenement building, but when you entered the flat itself, we found modern amenities and a wonderful sense of home. This flat was designed with a spacious modern kitchen which enables my friends to enjoy their cooking and love of wine. We enjoyed a full evening of conversation about life in Moscow over delicious red wine before heading out on the town to explore the latest after hour restaurants, clubs and bars in Moscow. In the wee hours of the morning our hosts flagged down another driver who proceeded to take us to a new restaurant and club that was all the rage in Moscow.
Entering Red Square is a powerful experience in itself. Having grown up during much of the Cold War, my images of Red Square were those of the troops, tanks and missiles parading past Lenin’s tomb during the annual May Day celebrations with the politburo viewing from above and acknowledging their powerful military might and supremacy. It is not until you actually walk around the square that you fully comprehend how significant the place really is with the Kremlin, Lenin’s Tomb, St. Basil’s Cathedral, Gum Department Store and the Istorichesky Muzey (Historical Museum) anchored on each side. Lenin would be turning in his grave if he knew that the icons of capitalism are now prevalent in the windows of Gum Department Store just across the way.
We made our way around Red Square and took several moments to just watch the people and tourists as they made their way in amazement around the perimeter of the square. Most people imagine Red Square to be flat, but it is actually like a mound rising from below on each side and rising slightly up to the center. As we watched our breath float in the crisp air, our first stop was St. Basil’s Cathedral – a common symbol of Red Square and Russia. Commissioned by Ivan the Terrible to celebrate his conquest of the Tatar city of Kazan on October 1, 1552, the central chapel rises over 107 feet and is surrounded by eight chapels topped by an onion-shaped dome. We wandered through the gallery and its maze-like corridors and enjoyed its rustic and whimsical simplicity.
GUM, the largest department store in the world, no longer sells the mass produced goods of the State, but the most famous names in fashion, jewelry and gadgets. The store is an amazing collection of shops located in a two level arcade with bridges linking the corridors and all topped off with a glass enclosed ceiling. On the opposite side of the Square is the Kremlin which is the symbol of Russia’s mystery and power for almost five hundred years. The origins of the city of Moscow date back to the 12th century and the heart and soul can be found within the imposing walls and towers of the Kremlin. Not only will you find amazing government buildings, but some of the most spectacular cathedrals and sanctuaries in Russia – all topped with onion-shaped domes. One of the highlights of a visit to the Kremlin is the Armory Museum and the Diamond Collection. The museum houses a spectacular collection of artifacts from clothing to carriages and jewelry to swords.
Our day was capped off with a sumptuous dinner at Gudanov’s Restaurant, famous for its traditional Russian cuisine, followed with a performance of the famous Russian opera at the Bolshoi Theatre. This is the 150th Jubilee Season of the theatre and a trip to Moscow would not be complete without experiencing firsthand the magic of the music, sets and the majesty of the building itself. The infrastructure of the theatre is in dire need of updating and renovations and a major international fundraising campaign is currently underway to restore the original integrity of the theatre and to integrate new technology to the backstage area. The opera – Gudanov – was almost four hours long, but the brilliance of the set designs and the strength of the talent made for a magical evening of performance excellence.
Off to St. Petersburg…perhaps one of my favorite cities in the world with its wonderful blending of the best of European culture with the rich history of Russia. Ever since my first experience with Aeroflot several years back, I was anxious to see how the airline has grown and developed. To my pleasant surprise, I was very impressed to see new check-in and baggage systems manufactured in Germany. Our flight was on schedule and we enjoyed very hospitable in-flight service complete with a full course meal and beverages.
Upon arrival in St. Petersburg we were greeted with beautiful blue skies and crisp air. Our car whisked us into downtown St. Petersburg to the majestic Grand Hotel Europe, where we found ourselves in a spacious corner room suite with windows overlooking the Nevsky Prospect – the main shopping street and artery that runs through the heart of the city. With only two days and one night to discover the city, we set our priorities and made our way on foot through the avenues and boulevards of St. Petersburg. Our hit list included the Kazan Cathedral, Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood, St. Isaac’s Cathedral, the Hermitage, the Peter and Paul Fortress and shopping on the Nevsky Prospect. In fact, Hermitage was the main reason for visiting the city and one could spend weeks in the massive Winter Palace buildings without seeing everything. Ruben and I share a passion for art, so this was clearly our focus and a priority. There are few places on the planet where you can walk through massive rooms and parlors filled with priceless pieces of antiquity or discover a room filled exclusively with paintings by Picasso. The Hermitage is truly an amazing place and worthy of a full day or two half day visits.
The sun sets early in St. Petersburg and as we made our way down the Nevsky Prospect towards the Neva River, we found the impressive semicircular colonnade of the Kazan Cathedral hiding in the shadows of darkness. We walked through the columns one by one until we reached the small wooden door and several beggars. Commissioned by Czar Paul I after a visit to Rome in 1801, the entire structure took over 10 years to build. Many argue that Czar Paul wished to copy or even perhaps better that of St. Peter’s Cathedral in Rome with its ornate sculpture and decoration. It is a bold attempt and once inside you fell as though you could be in any great cathedral in Europe. The Cathedral was closed in 1932 after the Revolution and converted to the Museum of Religion and Atheism. In recent years the Atheism has been dropped from the name and services have resumed. Like much of St. Petersburg, the structure is in dire need to repairs and upgrades.
The Church of the Saviour looks like a cousin of St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow. The beautiful, yet ornate structure rests alongside a quiet canal and the vibrant colors of the towers jump out and grab you. Commissioned by Alexander III, the church was built to memorialize the shocking death of his father, Alexander II, who was killed by terrorists on the same site in 1881. The church originally opened in 1907, but was closed by Stalin in the 1930’s and suffered extensive damage during World War II. After decades of meticulous renovation efforts, the interiors shine with spectacular tile mosaics and ornate stone carvings and gold leaf. This is in stark contrast to the simple stone interior of St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow.
St. Isaac’s is the world’s third-largest domed cathedral and this is rather obvious the moment you walk in through the main portal. Commissioned in 1818 by Alexander I to commemorate the victory over Napoleon, it took over four decades to build. We wandered through the columns and corridors like children on fieldtrip and admired the lavish decorations of malachite, lazulite and marble. After visiting St. Isaac’s we jumped back into the cold November air and headed for the Literary Café for traditional Russian fare and hot coffee. This is where the poet Alexander Pushkin ate his last meal in 1837 before his fatal duel. The Café also boasts wonderful chamber music which matches with the 19th century feel of the place – a great place to rest your feet after walking the streets of St. Petersburg.
Our last stop for the afternoon was the Peter and Paul Fortress. We crossed the Neva River over the Dvortsovy Bridge and about halfway we heard loud crashing sounds which to our surprise were massive ice flows smashing into each other in the waters below. We stood high above in amazement as the ice puzzle below us changed shape with every passing minute. We continued to walk along the banks of the Neva River and gazed across at the wonderful façade of the Hermitage Museum. One truly appreciates the size of the Winter Palace buildings that house the Hermitage art collection when you see them from across the river. We crossed over the small footbridge into the Peter and Paul Fortress and stood in the burial place of the czars, starting with Peter the Great and most that followed. The fortress was originally built in 1703 to defend the city in the Great Northern War against of Sweden, but never actually used. The main purpose of the fortress over the centuries was a political prison and place of execution. In fact the first prisoner confined to the inner walls of the fortress, was Peter the Great’s own son Alexei, who was tortured to death in 1718. The fortress walls also serve as a popular sun bathing spot in winter where hundreds of local citizens come to soak the sun against the stone walls.
We closed out stay in St. Petersburg with a magnificent dinner at the opulent dining room of L’Europe in the Grand Hotel Europe. The room has been completely restored in the grand style of the 19th century with stained-glass windows and a ceiling that illuminates the room magically. The restaurant also hosts an array of local musicians and artists that add soothing sounds of classical music to each dining experience. Course after course, from wine to champagne, a culinary experience of a lifetime. My return to Russia would close with a quick flight back to Moscow and overnight at the airport before the long flight home to Los Angeles.
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