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The Journey: Life is One Incredible Trip
Time. Where does it go? As one moves through life, it is not the years, months, weeks, days or hours that we remember, but the significant moments that occur throughout time. From the moment we are born, we begin to catalog the sights, sounds and smells of our immediate world. It is these moments that make us who we are and determine how we will respond to and interact with people in our lives.
Who am I? Who are we? Life is full of questions - many with answers and others without. As I prepare myself for this journey to India, I too ask many questions about who I am and where am I going? It is a shame that people do not take the time to ask themselves these very simple, yet essential questions concerning one’s existence. You might say, “Why is it necessary to ask such existential questions?” Because life is all about experience and it is through feeling the joys and sorrows of being that we come to understand our purpose here on Earth. WOW - my brain is about to bend...time to move on to lighter things.
February 20, 2001
Delta Flight #106 – Frankfurt to Bombay
I start this journal on the third leg from Frankfurt to Bombay...what a day it has been. Last night Ruben and I stayed up all night in preparation for the journey to India and at the moment I really have no clue what day or time it actually is...and does it really matter? All I know is that I cannot remember being so excited about a trip. For someone that is in the travel industry and flies on a regular basis, you would think that I have never made an overseas trip before.
Why India?
Ruben and I have covered much of the globe over the past year – Mexico, Japan, Russia and now India. Several months ago I told Ruben that I wanted to do something special for his 40th birthday...I wanted it to be and adventure – “out there” was the term I think I used. I proposed three destinations: India and the Palace on Wheels, sand surfing in Namibia, and a trip to explore the famed temple of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. As you can see, India was the final choice and it has become a very special trip for in many ways. From the simple travel perspective, India is a new destination for me and that alone is reason enough to make the journey. I am also at a very interesting place in my life as I write these words. I am at that “midlife” point where one begins to ask many questions about one’s place and purpose in life. I try not to make much of it, but it is a great opportunity to reflect and consider all that I have to be grateful for...great health, prosperous business, wonderful family and friends. Moreover, I am making this journey with an incredible man that I have grown to love over the past year – Ruben Flores.
We are still flying...over the Arabian Sea – somewhere – will we ever arrive? Just one more flight on Air India from Bombay to Delhi.
February 21, 2001 - 2:20 a.m.
Bombay International Airport – Maharajah Lounge
The Sights, Sounds and Smells of India
We arrived at midnight and the temperature was about 85 degrees – balmy with a thick haze in the air. All the international arrivals descend on Bombay at the same time, so chaos is the norm. Ruben is freaking out as I write these words – there are mosquitoes everywhere and he is afraid of contracting malaria. He had a rough time with the Larium medication last week, so I know he is concerned. To our surprise, we just found an Internet connection in the lounge. Ruben is letting the world know we arrived safe and sound in India. We cleared immigration and customs without a hitch and after exchanging money we ventured out to the Air India Terminal. The masses were upon us...drivers, porters, guides – you name it, they were everywhere. The poor and destitute lined the sidewalks as we passed a shiny, new blue “Cool Cab” – everything seemed very surreal with a thick haze overhead. We were thankful that it was evening and not the day when we arrived as the heat can climb in excess of 100 degrees. We are just relaxing now in the lounge waiting for our final flight to Delhi.
More than a full day has passed and it seems like we have been here for ages...there is something about time here in India. Our flight from Bombay to Delhi was on time and we enjoyed very comfortable seats on the upper deck of the Air India 747. The bureaucracy is very thick in India and Air India was no exception. Everything takes time...but to my surprise, everything has been on time. We arrived in Delhi and our driver from the Taj Mahal Hotel greeted us with large signage and a new magenta Mercedes Benz. Both Ruben and I noticed as soon as we left the airport that we had arrived in a developing country...the images of unfinished construction, messy streets filled with garbage, powerlines, noise, and more noise, bikes, cars, carts and cattle – all fighting for the right of passage on the roads. There is an interesting sense of organized chaos about you – difficult to define, yet right in your face. The caste system can be seen even on the roads – a power struggle for all, yet the one with the loudest horn wins. We dodged in and out of traffic with amazing speed and lack of accident. As we moved deeper into Delhi proper we encountered one roundabout after another...the city was beginning to feel much like a grid anchored in circular drives and feeding into multiple lanes and streets. The boulevards began to widen and the trees along the roadside formed a lovely canopy overhead. One could easily sense the legacy of the British in the architecture, gardens and overall feel of the city. Our arrival at the Taj Mahal Hotel was met with the standard pomp and circumstance of a five-star property. We were greeted not only by the bell staff, but also by the front desk manager who subsequently escorted us to our room for approval and check-in. When we finally had a moment to breathe, we both just looked at each other and realized we were in India and had not a clue what day or time it was!
My first order of business was a long hot shower – after almost 24 hours of flying, I was gross, stinky and dirty! The shower was my salvation – a second chance at life. Ruben, on the other hand, needed to resolve his ongoing cellular phone dilemma. It doesn’t matter where we travel, Ruben always seems to have issues with his phone...they just never seem to work right. Once we cleaned ourselves up we headed up one floor to our special lounge where we enjoyed a deluxe breakfast with all the trimmings – eggs, breads, fruit, juice and coffee. After we finished our breakfast we realized that is was only 9 o’clock in the morning and we had a full day ahead of us.
Delhi – What a First Day!
We decided to hire a driver for the day in order to see the major sights of the city. Our first stop was the Red Fort – a magnificent structure built of red sandstone in the old section of the city. Emperor Shah Jahan, who also constructed the Taj Mahal, built the 17th century fortress. The fort is considered the city’s main attraction and the Indian Prime Minister delivers his Independence Day Address here every August 15. Once we entered the main Lahore Gate we strolled through a corridor full of shops and street merchants. We found a small antique shop at the end of the row of shops – we were drawn to the window full of wooden sculptures and antique bronzes. A striking gentleman in his late 20’s escorted us to the back room where we looked at antique toys, sculptures, and paintings. We ended up walking out of the shop with some beautiful items to add to our ongoing collections from our global travels...Ruben with a bronze money holder in the shape of a head and an antique children’s toy. I purchased an antique child’s toy elephant on wheels and two prints on antique book paper. With our purchases in hand, we made our way deeper into the fort compound to visit the “palaces” contained within. At the inner entrance we encountered our first “guide for hire”. Actually, these “gentlemen” greet you very quietly and for some odd reason they end up guiding you throughout your visit. For our purposes, this was ideal as we needed an interpreter of what was around us in the Red Fort. We saw all the meeting halls, waiting rooms, baths with their intricate water canal systems, and the gardens. It became apparent with our first visit that India does not have the resources to maintain such historic properties. After having just visited Japan where incredible amounts of money are spent each year to restore and maintain sites of historical significance, India is in dire need of assistance to ensure much of the historical and cultural heritage is not lost.
From the Red Fort we drove through the amazing Chandni Chowk, which is the never center of Old Delhi. Open since 1654, it begins in front of the Red Fort and is one of the largest wholesale centers in Asia. You can buy just about anything. Traffic was gridlock, but we made it through the marketplace to the Jama Masjid, also known as the Friday Mosque. Here again we met an aggressive and willing guide who escorted us in and around this beautiful structure also built in the 17th century. Built by Shah Jahan it is the largest in India and second largest in Asia. The courtyard of the Mosque can hold over 25,000 people. When our guide was finished he asked for 1150 INR ($25)per person and we were shocked...we gave him 500 INR ($11)each and made our way back to the car for the drive to the Taj Mahal Hotel. After our busy morning and long two days of travel, we deserved a break and spent much of the afternoon poolside at our hotel in the warm sun. We enjoyed several King Fisher beers, conversation with the staff, and a delicious Indian lunch from the tandori oven. We were stuffed by the time we made it to our room to pack for the quick trip to the Delhi Cantt. Station to board the Palace on Wheels.
The Delhi Cantt. Station is rather remotely located in the city and for a while en-route I thought our driver was lost. Well, he was not and we arrived at the station along with our fellow passengers. We could hear traditional Indian music playing in the background and passengers were waiting everywhere in a staging area and under a big white tent in front of the station. Ruben made his way up to the check-in kiosk and got our cabin assignment – Jaipur C. Each car on the Palace on Wheels is named after one of the states in Rajasthan. This would be our home on the rails for the next week. We took a look around at the other travelers to see who we would be spending the week with and what a global mix. The passenger manifest included travelers young and old, male and female, gay and straight – you name it – all walks of life from around the world. Once we gathered our bags together, we made our way to the station platform. Beautiful Indian women bearing garlands of marigolds greeted us. We were also anointed on the forehead in red...Umesh, the Jaipur Car master, escorted us to our cabin. He was cheerful and clad in a beautiful turban and Indian suit. He also sported a rather full beard that covered his entire face. We arrived at our cabin and took a quick glimpse at our home-away-from-home. Though small at first sight, we were pleasantly surprised to find a wood paneled coach with a hand-painted ceiling. Two twin beds lined each side of the car with a small nightstand in between. A full bathroom with shower adjoined our cabin via a private door. Our first order of business was to set-up house...mini-bar, stereo, and all our clothes for the week. To celebrate we served our first Martinis and Manhattans.
Dinner at 8:15 p.m. – The Second Seating
Dining on the Palace on Wheels is an event in itself. We enjoyed our first dinner with Becky and her father. Both are from Ann Arbor and this is their first trip to India. Becky works for a gourmet deli and her father works at the University. Over conversation we enjoyed delicious traditional Indian cuisine from start to finish. At the end of dinner we invited Becky back to our cabin for a cocktail. We engaged in a lively conversation encompassing religion, faith, customs and our own expectations of India.
For Ruben and I, it was a rather full day considering we had just arrived in India at 12:04 a.m. the same day – what a full 24 hours! I was worried that I would not be able to sleep on the train, but out like a light I went and it was not until about 4:00 a.m. that I woke – CRASH – the train made a serious stop and everything flew forward. After picking everything up it was back to bed...
Umesh quietly knocked on our cabin door early in the morning – it must have been around 6:30 a.m. He poured tea and steamed milk, which we would later realize, was a daily ritual for starting the day. After our shower, we enjoyed breakfast in the Jaipur Car Lounge. We met our other traveling mates in Jaipur: Nick and Jeffrey and Lloyd and Tony. The four were from New York and traveling together for the entire seven-day journey through Rajasthan. This is also their first trip to India and what a coincidence that we would end up with a car full of Queens from the East and West coasts of the U.S.A.
February 22, 2001
JAIPUR – The Pink City
Our first full day of touring included the many sights and sounds of Jaipur. We were designated the Blue Group which consisted of members of the Jaipur coach and many others from various cars throughout the train. Before lunch we saw the Hawa Mahal, Amber Palace and enjoyed an elephant ride to the Palace entrance.
The façade of the Hawa Mahal is considered the second most photographed site in all of India after the Taj Mahal. We stopped for a brief moment to get a photo of this beautiful structure. The “building” is made of beautiful red sandstone with a lovely pinkish, terra-cotta hue. It was early in the morning, so the light made for very beautiful photographs. Our stop was very brief and from the Hawa Mahal, we ventured to the outskirts of town to see the Amber Fort and Palace. As we reached the peak of a small summit, we started to descend into a small valley where we could see to our left a magnificent structure perched on the top of a mountain ridge – the Amber Fort. Our guide advised us that we would enter the fort via traditional means, by elephant. We rode in fours up the mountainside – over artificial lakes and gardens to the main gate that opens to a beautiful courtyard with gardens and fountains. At the entrance of the fort the elephants paraded to the end of an elevated walkway where we disembarked and made our way to the inner fort entrance. We meandered through porticoes and porches, all designed with incredible detail and extravagance – fit for kings and queens. On this trip I decided to photograph mostly in black and white and carry a secondary camera for shots that require the splash of color they deserve. The intense sunlight and clear skies made for ideal photography as the contrasts and shading are very sharp and at their very best.
In the afternoon we made our way to the Observatory and City Palace – chock full of museums. It was midday and the sun was shining brightly on all of the many instruments of astrology and astronomy. We saw numerous instruments of time to the positioning of the North Star, horoscopes and their many alignments and meanings – all constructed in the 1700’s. What is amazing is that they are still just as precise as ever – in fact one of the clocks is accurate to 20-seconds. Ruben and I climbed over and under many of the structures that looked rather surreal in the open air, painted in brilliant yellows and whites. From the observatory we walked not too far to the City Palace, full of museums and all the grandeur associated with the Maharajas. We were even greeted by a surprise procession of monkeys over the palace walls...an amazing display of mothers with their babies running across the tops of the walls – at least 30 made their way overhead with the little one’s clinging to their mother’s underbelly.
February 23, 2001
JAISALMER – Soaring out of the Thar Desert
Sleepy, tired, slow. This is how I felt after a full night of rocking all the way to Jaisalmer. Last night was the longest single rail segment of our trip and it seemed like it would never end. Ruben seemed to just sleep right through everything as he usually does, but I just tossed and turned.
After our morning breakfast ritual – lots of coffee – we made our way to our motorcoach for a short ride to the outskirts of town to visit Gadsisar Lake. The desert air was so clear and fresh, lightly scented with a morning dew. Here we discovered a spectacular rainwater lake built in the 12th century. Surrounding the water’s edge are golden-hued shrines and pavilions – all very surreal. I felt as though we were on a movie set, just waiting for the actors and cameras to show up. The early morning sun made for spectacular viewing of the ruins on the lake and the many structures that dot the landscape. Ruben and I explored the many levels of the complex and from the highest point one could see the massive fort of Jaisalmer sitting atop the mountain and commanding a view of the entire region.
The Fort is the largest surviving fort in the world with almost 5,000 residents still living and working within the massive walls, just as they did centuries ago. Our coach took us to the fringe of the city center where we began our journey into the city by foot. This was our first time to truly experience the amazing sights and sounds of an ancient Indian city. Founded in 1156 by Rawal Jaisal, a descendent of the Yadav clan and a Bhatti Rajput, Jaisalmer lies on the western frontier of Rajastan – only 100 miles from Pakistan. The city’s history began as an important caravan center. From the 12th to the 18th centuries, the rulers of Jaisalmer accumulated great wealth from the taxes levied on travelers passing through the Thar Desert. Legend has it that this was also a smuggler’s paradise, with opium taking the prize as the all-time bestseller. Jaisalmer lost its role as a center with the rise of Bombay as a major trading port in the 19th century.
The city operates much the way it did centuries ago. Merchants line the streets selling everything from eggs to electronics. Jaisalmer is famous for its many haveli homes. Havelis are spectacular residences with indoor and outdoor courtyards, exquisitely latticed windows, intricate mirror work, vaulted ceilings, immense balconies and ornate gateways and facades. Perhaps the most impressive in the city and all of India is a strand of five connected havelis built by the Patwa brothers in the 1800’s. We made our way into this gracious building to find a central courtyard filled with cascading textiles and the sounds of merchants hawking their wares. Visitors sat on small benches around the perimeter of the courtyard or on the balcony overhead. Ruben and I watched in amazement as hundreds of handmade bedspreads and tapestries flew through the air – a rich blue piece caught Ruben’s eye and we had a purchase. The ever -curious boy in Ruben took him to the back corners of this fascinating shop and before I knew it he had found the perfect piece to start a cane collection. He was haggling with the merchant to acquire an antique camel bone cane – a deal was made and it was to be brought to the train later in the day.
As we made our way through the narrow streets of the city of Jaisalmer, we started a gradual climb to the final approach of the Fort. On our left we noticed new construction underway in methods of the Old World. A section of the fort wall was being made anew. What was most amazing though was the manner in which the stones were being laid and the systems being used to prepare each and every step of the assembly. Men were carrying massive stones with a chain harness over their shoulders and women were carrying containers of mortar and sand on the tops of their heads. The scene took us back in time to the basic methods of construction used centuries ago. How some things just never seem to change...
As we approached the main gateway or “pols” one immediately senses the magnitude of this structure. The fort perches almost 250 feet above the city and is protected by a 30-foot high wall and 99 bastions. I could just imagine massive Mogul armies at the stone gateways ready for battle. As we passed through the gates, light sounds from a flute and harp filled the air. However, this was quickly interrupted by the cries and screams of a beggar without limbs and shouts from a local merchant hawking his wares. All the sounds cascaded to create an amazing symphony for the ears. With every turn came another sight of amazement.
As we made our way through the web of narrow lanes and alleys to the central square of the fort, the intricately carved spires of the eight Jain temples could be seem all around as they poked the sky with impressive contrast. We were asked to take off our shoes and to leave all leather items outside before entering. The temple was rather small and compact, but the incredible detail of the intricate carvings was truly amazing. The inner chambers of the temple house thousands of carved deities and dancing figures in mythological settings. It is hard to believe that the entire complex has been standing intact since the 12th century. The upper reaches of the temple were accessible by a small staircase to the side of the entrance. At the top of the stairs you could circle the entire upper level of the temple and view visitors below. Small stone seats were carved into the balcony above to allow parishioners to be closer to the gods and to contemplate the many questions of life. After exploring the main building, I ventured out to the main entrance and made my way to the annex. What an amazing discovery – rays of light penetrated the vented ceiling and illuminated the sculptures and wall reliefs, giving them life as the light shifted. I caught myself in a daze – lost in time. For centuries these carvings adorned the walls of this amazing temple in the far reaches of western India and I wondered how many people were stopped in their tracks as I – dazed and lost in time. When I returned to reality it was back to the bus for our ride to the station to re-board the Palace on Wheels. As we made our way out of the fort and through the many gates, Ruben encountered a young boy who managed to befriend many in our group. When I first left the Jain temple, I noticed the boy speaking with an English woman and he managed to speak in several languages. Here was a poor boy, working the tourists as he know best – charming and with a smile and friendly greeting. He was very much attached to Ruben and as we made our way out of the fort walls and past the construction site we passed on the way in, his calls for money became more consistent. He realized that we were soon to be on our way and his chance for a rupee would be lost. His smile was contagious and Ruben being the sucker of all suckers contemplated giving the boy something. We did not have pens or other small items, so I suggested he give the boy his American Express Card. But in the end I took photos of Ruben with the boy and he gave him a few rupees as we boarded our bus.
We returned to the Palace on Wheels and rested for the afternoon before starting our journey to the famous sand dunes of Sam, located about 26 miles west of Jaisalmer. It seemed like the longest 26 miles on the planet as we bumped and turned our way further into the Thar Desert. No matter which way we turned, there was nothing but barren desert. And then out of nowhere surface these amazing wind-caressed dunes that ripple out into the horizon. A visit to the Sam Sand Dunes would not be complete without a camel ride. And yes, Ruben and I managed to get on top of a massive camel as it sat on the ground. Getting a camel to stand up is an interesting proposition. One must hold on with sheer might as the camel raises its hind legs first. If you are not careful, you could easily end up on your head. Our guide escorted us out into the dunes and I was amazed at the strength of these animals. In the far distance we could see camels running on the horizon – flying through the air like ripples in a mirage. After parading around the sand dunes it began to take on a circus atmosphere with dozens of camels and their accompanying tourists riding up and down the dunes. We returned to the starting point and sat on a wonderful bluff overlooking the camel camp and the slowly setting sun. What I found most striking were the many vibrant colors contrasting with the golden dunes of the desert. We sat back and relaxed to the music of local musicians as the sun began to disappear in a fiery red glow. There is nothing like a desert sunset where everything begins to glow and then slowly begin to filter into darkness.
This evening will be our first formal evening off the train. A full “cultural experience” is scheduled for the evening at the finest hotel in Jaisalmer. We returned to the train to clean up after our camel encounter and to get ready for our big evening on the town. Coaches whisked us away to the new Gorbandh Palace, built of golden sandstone with haveli-style blocks arranged around beautiful courtyards. The evening was perfect for outdoor enjoyment with warm weather and no breeze. Tables were arranged around the poolside and a majestic buffet lined the outer perimeter of the courtyard. At the far end of the patio was a stage for the evening performances – we were promised everything from dancing to flame throwing. Throughout the evening we enjoyed delicious food and entertainment – never once realizing that we were on the other side of the planet in the far reaches of western India in the middle of the desert.
February 24, 2001
JODHPUR – The Fort in the Sky
When traveling through Rajasthan, your eyes are constantly filled with incredible images of grandeur on a massive scale and after a while one wonders if there could possibly be anything more spectacular. Well, Meghrangarh Fort is almost beyond description. The fort guards the city of Jodhpur from its perch high above the city. Built in 1459 by Rao Jodha when he shifted his capital from Mandore to Jopdhpur, the fort is visible from the far reaches of the desert.
Before visiting the fort, our first stop was the Jaswant Thada, located next to the Mehrangarh Fort. This white royal marble crematorium was built in 1899 for Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. The white marble is a dazzling contrast to the surrounding brown hills. Our coach let us off just outside the entrance where a massive platform commands views of the entire city and the Fort nearby. We approached the memorial by a long walkway that is bordered by a purification lake on the left and gardens on the right. The entire site is peaceful and filled with an airy sense of tranquility as you float on the mountaintop.
The centerpiece of the complex is an enormous white marble structure surrounded by canopies and carved latticework. Individual members of the royal family are buried throughout the site under these simple canopies. I sat back on one of the terraces and tried to envision the entire ceremony with its processions, cremations, purification, and ultimate release of the ashes in the Ganges River.
The Fort
Built on a sheer cliff, it is no wonder that this structure has been impregnable over the centuries. When you first approach the fort and its main gate you are overwhelmed at the sheer scale of the walls and the enclosed buildings. The Victory Gate, the first of eight, is a clear indication of what is to follow. Built to commemorate the military victory against the Moguls at the beginning of the 18th century, each successive gate opens another amazing chapter of the forts impressive history. The remaining seven gates each represent other victories over many of the surrounding Rajput States. Just as Ruben and I made our way through the Victory Gate and looked up to our left, we realized how insignificant we had just become. Towering above our heads was the inner compound of the fort with its turrets and intricately carved verandas – all beyond amazement. Not only did they manage to build a magnificent military structure, but also a beautiful residential palace. We made our way through several smaller gates to an open plaza with a commanding view of the old section of the city. Jodhpur is famous for its blue houses, painted with a special blue dye that is mixed into the white cement. From our high perch at the fort, the city looks like a sea in the desert. As we continued along the lower ramparts leading into the innermost section of the fort, we arrived at the last gate. As in many Rajput forts, the arches are marked with the haunting handprints of the wives who immolated themselves after hearing the news that their husbands were defeated in battle.
For the entire afternoon we wandered the fort and gazed in amazement at the Pearl Palace, Flower Palace and Glass Palace – all beautifully decorated from top to bottom with murals, mirrors, and delicately carved lattice windows. The halls of the museums contained lavish royal palanquins, thrones, and paintings. Perhaps the highlight of the afternoon tour was the momentary glimpse of a beautiful Indian woman in one of the alcove windows overlooking a central courtyard. I just happened to have my camera ready and in an instant I captured the heavenly image of this woman in all her glory. She seemed to be a part of the structure with her dress blending with the intricate latticework of the porticos.
In front of one of the apartments we stopped in the afternoon sunshine and watched a local gentleman unwind and rewind his turban. To our surprise, the fabric stretched from one end of the courtyard to the other. Who would have known that a turban contained so much fabric!
As we made our way back to the coach, we could see in the far distance on the horizon the Umaid Bhawan Palace. This monstrous building was constructed between 1929 and 1942 and is now part museum, part royal residence and part Heritage Hotel. As we made our final approach to main entrance I couldn’t help but notice the unique Art Deco design. It almost looked like something that Frank Lloyd Wright would have conceived if he had been the architect. Ruben and I wandered the many halls and public rooms of this majestic palace. As we passed through the 183-foot high central dome, we found ourselves on the back colonnaded veranda overlooking the gardens. Lawns seemed to stretch for miles and all around you could see beautiful flowers and hedges. Of course Ruben was in heaven and he leaped and jumped from one end of the garden to the other taking pictures of everything in sight.
One of the pleasures of traveling with the Palace on Wheels is the privilege of using all of the hotel’s facilities when we arrive for lunch and leisure. The Umaid Bhawan Palace offered a wonderful swimming pool and health club under the great dome. We made sure to bring our “bathing costume” as the itinerary suggested and enjoyed a wonderful swim and workout. Ruben also managed to find an Internet connection in the central offices of the hotel, which preoccupied him long past our scheduled departure. After everyone was accounted for except for Ruben, I made a made dash back to the hotel to locate him, only to find on my return that he was hiding in the staff offices checking his e-mail.
We made our way back to the train at about 4:00 o’clock and headed straight for the bar lounge to start a game of Yahtzee. Tall frosty beers in big pewter mugs accompanied each and every throw of the dice and before we knew it several games had passed and many with an unusual high number of Yahtzees - five-of-a-kind in three rolls of the dice. I don’t know if it was the exorbitant amount of beer or just good luck that we ended up with such high scores.
Dinner followed in the dining car as we made our way to Sawai Madhopur for our early morning safari at Ranthambore National Park.
February 25, 2001
Sawai Madhopur – Chittaurgarh
In Search of Tigers – Monkeys and More Monkeys
It was way too early in the morning - dark and the sun nowhere to be found. That is how I felt at the time when Umesh made his early morning call at 6:00 a.m. and brought our traditional tea and biscuits. He informed us that we had 30 minutes to get ready for the ride to the park and since we would be driving in an open-air safari vehicle, we were asked to dress warm. We stumbled around and made our way to the station platform where two very large and clumsy looking jeeps were waiting for our passage. The vehicles looked like odd flatbed trucks with two rows of seats. We jumped into the first row and Umesh gave us a heavy wool blanket to use for warmth as we dashed into the surrounding countryside. As the sun made its way slowly up into the sky, we immediately realized the beauty of the open fields and surrounding hillsides. As we drove further into the outback, the rugged Aravalli and Vindhya hills became more apparent. We approached the main gate of the park where our driver obtained government approval for our entrance and the silence was squelched by an onslaught of hawkers selling everything from T-shirts to videos. They were persistent and would not stop until the vehicle finally pulled away from the roadside. In an effort to support the local commerce and to halt the oppressive sales techniques of the hawkers, Ruben and I purchased Ranthambhore National Park patches with tiger emblems as souvenirs.
Ranthambhore is famous for both its tiger and leopard populations, so of course we were most interested in seeing a large cat. After about 1˝ hours of touring through spectacular boulder plateaus, lakes and rivers, we did not see a single tiger or leopard. What we did see instead were hundreds of birds, peacocks, deer, sauras, wild pigs and monkeys. The trail ride was a great departure from the confines of the train, but after a short while we were ready to return to the train to continue our journey to the next stop. I am sure that if we had seen a tiger or two we would have asked for more time to admire the cats and to take many photographs.
Upon our return to the train we learned that of the six groups that made the trip to the park, only two groups did not see a tiger. Of course we had to be one of those groups. Cocktail anyone? We sulked over a late breakfast and prepared for our next stop – the legendary Chittaugarh Fort. The fort covers an impressive 700 acres on a plateau over 2,000 feet high. In its illustrious past, the fort was surrounded and sacked three times. The Rajputs recovered it on two occasions, but the third attack by the Moguls kept it in their foreign hands for several decades.
After lunch on the train, we embarked on a unique journey into the glorious past of Rajasthan. One of the most famous stories of the region involves not the male warriors of Chittaugarh, but the maharanis. Legend has it that the beauty of Rani Padmini so enamored the Sultan of Delhi, that he set out to attack the fort and win her in battle. Over 7,000 warriors died in the struggle, yet the Sultan did not get Padmini. The maharani, along with her entire entourage, committed jauhar rather than submitting to the Sultan and his warriors. This enraged the Sultan and he set out to destroy just about everything in sight, which along with the story of chivalric lore, is one of Chittaugarh’s enduring tragedies.
The entire fort encompasses several palaces and a variety of temples. The victory towers are the most interesting with their unique architectural design and intricate detail. As I passed through a small gateway to one of the lower temple complexes I encountered dozens of monkey families. Everywhere I turned there were monkeys and more monkeys. The newborn baby monkeys were in the clutches of their mothers and sporting happy faces as we attempted to get closer and closer for a photograph.
As I returned to the motorcoach, I noticed an Indian couple having their picture taken by a local photographer. They were a young couple and he was dressed in western clothing and she was wearing a traditional Indian sari. There was something magical about the expression in her eyes and I could not stop staring. As I turned away, they approached me and asked if I would join them in a photo. As I heard the guide yelling for everyone to board the coach, I obliged and jumped into the photo with this Indian couple. I then asked if I could take a picture of them. They said yes and we exchanged addresses to mail the pictures to each other. Once I had their address I dashed back onto the bus ready for another adventure.
February 26, 2001
Udaipur
Rock, Rattle and Roll: Opium Fields and the Bus Ride from Hell
When I woke this morning I was anxious to get on the road to see the famous City of Lakes: Udaipur. Ever since seeing the James Bond film Octopussy, I have wanted to experience the magic of Lake Pichola. Little did I know that our ride from Chittaugarh would be so long and bumpy. We were told that it would take about 2 hours travel time with a brief stop en-route. We boarded the bus with our reading material at 7:30 a.m. and as soon as we left the station and merged with the main highway, we realized we were in for a long day on the road. Tourist buses are at the top of the life chain on Indian highways due solely to the sheer size of the vehicle. All smaller cars, bikes, carts and animals must yield the right-of-way to larger, more life threatening vehicles. We darted and swerved in and out of traffic. It is remarkable that no one was killed as we made our way to Udaipur. After about 45 minutes of driving, our train manager asked if we wanted to experience an opium field. A resounding yes filled the air. I am not sure if it was because we needed a break from the bumpy ride or whether we all wanted to get high. In any case we found ourselves on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by magnificent white poppy fields. Ruben and I made a dash for a small corner section of the field and before I knew it, Ruben was smack in the middle of the field with his head popping out of the flowers like a child playing in a garden. We took several amusing pictures and admired the incredible beauty of the thousands of flowers and the surrounding countryside. To think that this simple flower has brought down people and countries all over the world with its powerful content...
After romping in the fields we made our way back to the bus and continued our bumpy ride to the City of Lakes. Our first stop was to see the Sahelion Ki Bari or Garden of the Maidens. The complex was built for the royal ladies-in-waiting and in the 18th century men were forbidden entrance. The garden features exotic flowers, theme fountains, and tranquil pavilions. Unfortunately, the fountains were dry due to the drought and one had to imagine the water flowing through the channels and spraying in the air. We managed to get the feeling of the gardens sans maidens and enjoyed all the beautiful flowers in full bloom.
Udaipur is famous for its silver jewelry, wooden folk toys, miniature paintings, tribal arts, terra-cotta work, applique and embroidery. Our next stop was at an art institute where we saw firsthand how the miniature paintings are created. We met some amazing young artists and were able to purchase special pieces created locally at their atelier. I found a series of elephants and a beautiful outdoor scene with such detail that it defies the human eye. Even with a magnifying glass you wonder how the artist was able to create such detail. I will treasure these forever as they are a beautiful reminder of Udaipur and its celebrated local arts.
And now the highlight of the day’s excursion: a visit to the Lake Palace. As we made our way from the art institute to the City Palace complex, we drove through beautiful tree-lined boulevards and passed several lush city parks. It is no wonder the city is so favored by Indians and tourists alike. And then, without forewarning, one could see the imposing maharana’s palace – the largest in Rajasthan with its creamy-white exterior overlooking the lake. From the top of the ridge we started our descent to the lake’s edge and like a dream, the Lake Palace floats surreally in the center of Lake Pichola. From the base of the City Palace, we took a small launch to the floating fantasy island and when we turned our heads to see the view from behind, the entire City Palace and all of its grandeur jumped right at us. The entire structure is actually a series of palaces, two of which have been converted to hotels and one which houses the current maharana, Arvind Singh of Mewar.
The launch took just a few minutes and once we disembarked at the Lake Palace Hotel dock, tall Indian men in beautiful white cotton suits greeted us. We made our way to the lobby and immediately after stepping into the white marble palace we realized that we were lost in time in a surreal white marble fantasy floating in the middle of a lake. We enjoyed the best Indian buffet lunch of the tour and luck would have it that we had plenty of time to enjoy the hotel and its spectacular pool and veranda. As soon as I was finished with my lunch, I made a beeline to the pool and was entranced by what I saw. I wandered through narrow passages and doorways and at the last turn was a sparkling blue pool in the center of a courtyard on the upper reaches of the palace. I put on my swimming costume and made my way into the water for a glorious hour of R & R in the Udaipur sun! What a treat...I felt like a maharaja on holiday.
All good things must come to an end and our call to return to the City Palace across the waterway was beckoning. We returned to the other side of the lake and slowly climbed the roadway leading to the entrance of the Palace. We walked past the hotel portion of the complex and caught a glimpse of the royal family compound across from the main entrance to the City Palace and Museum. The sprawling structure rides the ridge of the lake’s edge and maintains a very harmonious design, despite its long history of construction. The main building is framed by tall octagonal towers with playful copulas and all connected by a series of narrow passageways. As we made our way deep into the heart of the palace complex, each room contained incredible paintings, glasswork and antique furniture. The views from the many windows commanded spectacular views of the surrounding city, mountains and the Lake Palace. Perhaps the most impressive place in the Palace is the fifth-floor courtyard with a huge tree growing right in the center. The courtyard is surrounded by a beautiful corridor of columns and covered walkway that circles an amazing tree which appears to be growing right out of marble. To our surprise we learned that the builders of this section of the Palace designed the courtyard on top of the highest part of an underlying hill, so the fifth floor is actually right on top of the mountain which explains why the tree is able to survive and prosper. As our group made its way to the exit, I made a quick detour to a veranda overlooking the Palace Square and the surrounding city of Udaipur. I noticed that the buildings of the city are predominantly white in color as contrasted to the pink palaces of Jaipur and the blue buildings of Jodphur. The magic of Rajasthan is its language of color. Everywhere you turn your eyes feast on the vivid contrast of the earthen tones of the desert with the vibrant colors of the buildings and clothing of the people.
The sun was still bright and warm in the late afternoon and all I wanted to do was return to the Lake Palace and relax in the sunshine around the pool. I was envious of some of our traveling companions that arranged to leave the train early and spend a few nights at the Lake Palace Hotel. But we were off to the Taj Mahal the following day, so the prospect of even greater things filled my mind as we returned to our coach. The remainder of the afternoon was full of bumps, swerves, and more bumps...as we made our way back to Chittaugarh to board the Palace on Wheels.
February 27, 2001
Bharatpur and Agra
Birds, Palaces and the Taj Mahal
The last full day on the Palace on Wheels had finally arrived and what a day! I remember waking up on the train and saying to myself in disbelief that I was going to see the Taj Mahal – live and in person. I must have said this over and over again to ensure myself that I was not dreaming. As children, we learn about the Wonders of the World, but it is something all together different when we actually get to see for ourselves the magic of these magnificent structures. I recall my first sight of the Great Pyramids of Giza – total and complete disbelief. I wondered what it would be like to see the Taj Mahal for the first time. But before all this was to occur in the late afternoon, we had a full schedule visiting the Keoladeo National Park (also known as the Ghana Bird Sanctuary) and the Fatehpur Sikri.
The Bird Sanctuary was founded in 1733 and was once the duck hunting forest of the local maharajas and their foreign guests. The entire sanctuary spans 12 square miles of forests and wetlands inviting more than 400 species of birds from the Himalayas, Siberia and even Europe. The park is also home to mammals and reptiles.
The best way to see the park is by cycle-rickshaw. When we exited the motorcoach, we immediately found ourselves in a queue for the rickshaws. Before we knew it we were seated on a very hard seat with a very energetic driver and guide and flying down the main artery of the park. For the life of me I cannot remember our guides name, but Ruben and I enjoyed joking with the guide about his keen eye and the prospects of a big tip if we saw the rarest of birds in the park. Ruben brought our Rajasthan guidebook that contained a special detailed section on the bird sanctuary. There were many photographs and descriptions of the birds in their natural habitat that the guide found very useful to supplement his explanation of the park and its many wonders. About every minute or so he would abruptly stop and yell out the name of a bird. It was the beautiful King Fisher bird that we enjoyed the most with its azul blue belly and brilliant markings. Or was it because King Fisher is the best Indian beer that we liked the bird so much? We spent about an hour touring the sanctuary and upon our return we tipped our gracious guide handsomely and made our way to our motorcoach.
Next stop – Fatehpur Sikri. In 1571, the Mogul emperor Akbar was blessed with a male heir to the throne and to honor his great fortune he built a new capital – “City of Victory”. Fatehpur Sikri stands now as an intriguing ghost town as the capital was moved after only 15 years to Lahore and then eventually back to Agra.
The buildings are made of magnificent red sandstone and are remarkably well preserved. They almost appear as though they were just built yesterday. The architecture incorporates styles from many of Akbar’s Indian properties and for those that have been to the Forbidden City in China, they will recognize the intricate complex of gates that lead to inner courtyards with both public and private halls. What I enjoyed about this visit was the sanctuary that the courtyards provide for visitors. As we walked from building to building we realized how few tourists there were and how quiet it felt. After visiting so many palaces and forts with hundreds of guests coming and going, this was a great treat to feel at ease without hassle or noise. But no tourist site in India would be complete without hawkers selling their trinkets and Fatehpur Sikri is no exception.
After a full morning of touring, we returned to the Palace on Wheels for lunch and some early afternoon R & R. The train was scheduled to arrive at Agra Cantt. Station at 3 o’clock for our afternoon visit to the Taj Mahal. We waited in anticipation like anxious children on their first trip to Disneyland.
The moment had arrived for us to see the famed Taj Mahal in Agra. We have been waiting for this since well before starting our journey. I can remember buying Ruben a large coffee table book on the Taj for Christmas and ever since the images have been on our minds. Our gala dinner was immediately following our visit, so we were asked to “dress-up” for the occasion. We boarded our coaches and as we made our way into the city of Agra, I kept looking all around for the first glimpse of the Taj Mahal. I knew that the structure was large, but couldn’t put it into any realistic perspective. And then, out of nowhere, the top of the Taj Mahal explodes into your vision like a mirage. The sheer size from a distance put everything into perspective immediately. We were advised that larger gas powered vehicles were restricted within a certain distance of the Taj Mahal, so we would drive to a staging area where an electric vehicle would take us the final distance to the entrance of the complex. We all jammed into what was a very small mini-bus and anxiously awaited our arrival at the Taj Mahal. We readied our cameras with full rolls of film and prepared for what would be a significant moment in time – the first glimpse of the Taj Mahal. Our guide escorted us into a series of courtyards and then to the main sandstone gateway.
Words cannot describe one’s first glance of the Taj Mahal. The Taj seems to jump right out at you and float in space before your very eyes. The architecture is bedazzling, but what makes this place so special is the love story that inspired its creation. In 1612, at the age of 21, Arjuman Banu married the young Shah Jahan and she became his favorite wife. She was referred to as Mumtaz Mahal (the Exalted of the Palace) and Mumtazul-Zamani (the Distinguished of the Age), for throughout her life she was his confidant, advisor, and soul mate. She bore him 14 children and it was in childbirth that she died in 1630. It is said that on her deathbed she begged the king to build a monument that would forever exemplify their love. And to this end, the Shah Jahan started construction of a magnificent white marble mausoleum in 1632. It took over 17 years and an army of some 20,000 laborers to complete the project, which is considered to be one of the most admired structures of all time.
The Taj is situated at the end of a large, four-quartered garden symbolizing paradise, extending about one thousand feet in each direction from a small central pool. It was the late afternoon, so the low sun made for a golden yellow hue on the white marble of the Taj. The Taj Mahal actually sits on two bases; one made of sandstone and the other of white marble. At each corner of the platform is a slender marble minaret standing 137 feet high. They are actually built at a slight tilt away from the tomb so that, in case of an earthquake, they will fall away from the tomb. We took a group photo together in front of the Taj Mahal and then headed out on our own to explore the massive complex. The reflections of the Taj in the pools were magnificent as the sun continued to throw a spectrum of golden colors as it set over the horizon. When we finally approached the mausoleum, we were asked to remove our shoes before climbing the final steps to the upper platform. We made our way to the entrance and proceeded to enter the inner chamber of the mausoleum. The inside was very dark with subtle rays of light piercing through sections of the upper chamber. The reflections were magnificent on the carved marble latticework screens and panels located all throughout inside of the Taj. After circling the crypts, we made our way out of the Taj Mahal and spent the remainder of the time wandering the upper platform and enjoying the views of the Yamuna River that runs directly behind the Taj.
I did not want to leave such a beautiful place, but our time had come and it was off to the hotel for our gala dinner and cultural experience. But before dinner, we were treated with a brief stop at an inlaid marble studio. The owner and several of his artisans showed how the marble is cut and set in the stone, piece by piece. Inside the studio the showroom displayed amazing works of art. I fell in love with two small white marble boxes with intricate inlay detail. The marble is still quarried from the same location as the stone used in the construction of the Taj Mahal.
In the evening we enjoyed a spectacular dinner at the Palace Hotel along with local musicians and dancers. The dancers were truly incredible as they performed numbers of incredible speed and tapping. I grew dizzy watching them spin and tap on the stage before us. It was an incredible day and a perfect end to the weeklong journey on the Palace on wheels.
We returned to the train and sadly realized that it was time to start packing for our early morning departure.
February 28, 2001
Delhi to Bombay
Umesh woke us up for the last time and we enjoyed our final breakfast on the train. Ruben continued to work with Nano on his English and we will always remember the phrase “Whatever” as it became his tag word. For all we know, he has probably offended someone terribly on a subsequent trip by responding with “whatever” and no longer has a job. He is probably racing his camels which is his favorite pastime.
Our driver took us to the airport for our morning flight to Bombay. We enjoyed a brief 2-hour flight on Jet Airways after passing through the countless bag and body checks at the airport. Upon arrival in Bombay we were met by our driver from the Taj Mahal Hotel and whisked into the unbelievable chaos on downtown Bombay. And we thought Delhi was crazy?! Bombay was otherworldly with people and cars everywhere. It took over one hour to travel only 13 miles from the airport to the hotel. We were so relieved to get to the hotel and to spend our first night in India off of the train.
The Taj Mahal Hotel is truly one of the few remaining grand hotels in the world. The hotel opened in 1903 and evokes the pomp and glory of a historic past while heralding the future. The Taj is built in the Indo-Saracenic architecture reminiscent of the mystique of the Raj. We requested a room in the historic old wing and it is truly a showplace. Not only is the building itself spectacular, but the hallways and public areas are filled with wonderful sculptures and paintings. Everywhere you turn your eyes are treated to something new and different.
Our room was tastefully appointed and the Manager presented us with a bottle of red wine and a tier or delicious chocolates and cookies. The room overlooked the beautiful pool, which was my next stop on the itinerary. Ruben wanted to exercise, so he found the hotels extensive health club and I made my way poolside and ordered a tall, cold King Fisher beer. I sat back and reveled at how much we had done in the past week and how nice it was to be relaxing poolside in the warm sunshine of Bombay. I called my friends in Bombay and arranged to meet them the following afternoon after some morning shopping.
Three hours later Ruben finally finished his running (he was planning on running the LA Marathon two days after returning home from India) and called me to join him for a hot soak in the health club jacuzzi. We both relaxed for the remainder of the afternoon and decided to order room service in the hotel and call it an evening.
March 1, 2001
Bombay: An Insider’s Glimpse
Our visit to Bombay would not have been so incredible if it wasn’t for our local hosts. Before traveling to India, I contacted a friend in Canada and told him about my plans for a short sidetrip to Bombay. Well, he went beyond the call of duty and arranged for us to meet his sister, Anita, and her friend, Sangeeta. He told us they were avid shoppers so they directed us where to go on our own in the morning hours to pick up small items and we arranged to meet at the Taj Mahal Hotel Lobby at 3 o’clock.
Ruben and I are dangerous when we shop. I am not normally a big shopper, but when the two of us get together and there is something unique at hand, we are like children in a candy store. We started with shawls and pillow covers and then moved on to rugs. From rugs it was on to tapestries and then we had to stop, but not yet. We visited an antique shop just down the lane from our hotel and Ruben spotted an incredible collection on crystal 8-day globe clocks. Many were turn of the century and Ruben wanted an entire collection, so we started to arrange the pieces in the cabinet and began the negotiation process. In the end Ruben had a magnificent collection of clocks...the question now was carrying the heavy pieces home without customs thinking we have some type of bomb mechanism.
The highlight of Bombay was meeting our local hosts and spending the afternoon and early evening exploring the hidden wonders of such a big city. We met in the hotel lobby and instantly we hit it off. They scolded us for not meeting up with them when we first arrived and we apologized. But that did not slow us down. They took us to the studio of Mahendra Doshi located on the slopes of Malabar Hill and overlooking the Back Bay. As soon as we walked down the small alleyway to his studio, we knew we were in for a treat. Huge, antique basins and stone sculptures lined the walkway right to the doorway. When we entered the first level of the studio a handsome, gray-haired gentleman greeted us. Anita and Sangeeta approached him with open arms and a big hug and we were formally introduced. Sangeeta gave us the full tour of the multi-leveled studio/factory. Mahendra Doshi is a well-known artist and his specialty is taking antique pieces and restoring them to their original splendor. Some pieces are complete restorations, while others are unique interpretations fresh of new design elements. We wandered around floor after floor of antique pieces and artisans working on a series of projects. Mahendra Doshi invited us for lunch and tea and we enjoyed a lovely meal over conversation. We realized that this gentleman was truly a genius and a master of the English language. After lunch we parted and made our way across town to the home of another designer/artist – James.
James lives in a gorgeous 200 year-old home right in the middle of old Bombay. The home rivals many museums with its collection of artwork, antiques and sculpture. He occupies the entire upper part of the building where he also has his office and design studio. The home has been in the family for generations and we were able to meet many family members when we toured the lower level. James showed us some of his current fashion designs and the pieces that he is most proud of. He specializes in light clothing suitable for a tropical beach environment. Sangeeta took us for a walk around the home to get a feel for the neighborhood and how special this little place is in the scheme of things in Bombay. After a light afternoon of conversation with James, we said good-bye to our local hosts and made our way back to the Taj Mahal Hotel to get ready for our flights home to the USA.
March 2, 2001
India to the USA:
The Flights Home
Bombay International Airport is not fun. We realized that we would not be able to take the first leg of our planned trip from Bombay to Frankfurt on Delta Air Lines. We would be flying on Singapore Airlines from Bombay to Manchester, England and then connecting on to Frankfurt on Lufthansa. Well, the flight from Bombay in Singapore Airlines Raffles Class was fantastic. We had very comfortable seats on the upper deck of the aircraft and the 10-hour flight just seemed to fly by. We arrived in Manchester on time and proceeded to change terminals for our connection to Frankfurt on Lufthansa. Well, the fun was over. When we finally got to the Lufthansa gate, they had decided to close the gate and not allow any more passengers on board. This meant that we would miss our Delta Air Lines flight out of Frankfurt and this was not acceptable. This then led to a heated argument, which in the end, proved to be pointless. After thinking about the whole dilemma, I inquired as to whether seats were available on the Manchester to Atlanta flight on Delta Air Lines. Our luck would have it that just two seats were open and we would be able to secure them for our return flight home. The next dilemma would be our baggage. Where was it? To our surprise they located three of the four bags we checked, so we wondered where the last bag was and which one was missing. We were instructed to file a lost baggage report at our final destination – Los Angeles.
We proceeded to the gate where our names were called on the PA system. Our bags were ready to be put on the plane, but they needed to be identified. We then discovered that the missing bag was also the bag with all of our gifts. We boarded the aircraft, toasted with big Mimosas, and began our final journey home to the USA. I sat in my seat reflecting about everything that had transpired over the past two weeks and there was just too much to process. It would take some time to take it all in and make sense of it – or at least try to make some sense out of it all. We finally arrived home safely in Los Angeles and on schedule. We filed our lost baggage report and made our way back to Laguna Beach.
(They did find the missing bag and it was delivered just a few days after our return.)
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