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Edge of Nowhere
June 2000
From the moment we landed, it seemed like we were chasing the sun as it quickly started to set over the Pacific. The nonstop Alaska Airlines flight from Los Angeles to Puerto Vallarta seemed like a quick shuttle flight and upon arrival we were greeted with crystal blue skies and balmy 85 degree weather. The Hotelito representative was waiting for us with a small sign and escorted us to an air conditioned four wheel drive for the two hour drive to the Edge of Nowhere.
The Hotelito Desconocido, or little unknown hotel, is located on the beautiful Costa Alegre between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo. The drive from the airport took us through downtown PV, Mismaloya and then into the hinterland. As the sun continued to set I wondered if we would ever get to the hotel. I could just hear many of my clients saying “where in the hell is Gregory sending us this time?” And then, just as the red-orange sun set over the ocean, we arrived at the reception area of Hotelito.
We were greeted with large torches as the staff began the daily evening ritual of lighting the thousands of candles, lamps and torches that illuminate the entire resort. Hotelito does not have electricity. You will not find telephones, TVs or even air conditioning. So if you require these creature comforts of modern life, Hotelito may not be your ideal resort destination. However, what Hotelito lacks in terms of modern technology, it makes up in gracious service and romanticism. Hotelito is the ideal escape for those willing to let go and just relax in paradise.
Hotelito was built in 1996 and the mission of the resort is to provide guests with an unforgettable travel experience yet at the same time preserve the surrounding natural environment. The entire property is located on an estuary that is a breeding ground for turtles. Accommodations at Hotelito are what make it so unique. Guests stay in fare-style bungalows built entirely of local materials. Natural adobe walls are topped with thatched roofs. Nopalitos (“baby cactus”) bungalows are located on the beach and the Palafitos are over-the-water (estuary) bungalows built on stilts. Each room has a walk-in solar shower room with wonderful amenities. The living area is sparsely furnished and each unit has a large oversized bed with beautiful netting. One of the joys of staying at Hotelito is hoisting the red flag in the sky just outside the window each morning to alert the staff to deliver morning coffee and treats.
At check-in, we felt like we were on a grand adventure. The “front desk” is located in a small adobe structure and above the huge reception desk is a magnificent crystal chandelier lit with hundreds of candles. The guest register is a magnificent leather-bound ledger with the look and feel of days gone by...once signing the book we knew our good fortune was about to begin.
The timely sunset arrival after the long drive from the airport ushered in the first of many margaritas. There is nothing better than a fresh lime margarita with the best tequila in Mexico - it very quickly became the beverage of choice during our stay. When staying at Hotelito, all of your meals are included in the price of your room. We arrived just in time for dinner at the main restaurant - El Cantarito. The setting is magnificent overlooking the estuary and the building is a large, open-air thatched pavilion. We savored delicious traditional Mexican cuisine and seafood while sipping on margaritas as fast as the sun dropped into the Pacific.
A trip to Hotelito is meant to be an escape from civilization, so the focus is on rest and relaxation. This is what Hotelito does best. The resort offers a wide variety of ways to unwind including an extensive selection of treatments at their “World of Health Spa”, outdoor activities ranging from horseback riding to yoga, or just slipping into a hammock under a poolside thatched canopy – with or without book or cocktail in hand. The breeze off the Pacific is enough to release any tension you may have brought from the “other world”. My traveling companion and I have a passion for running and Hotelito offers over 40 miles of private beach. On our second evening we ventured out for a long run and out of nowhere popped an amazing full moon that hung low in the sky and illuminated the sand and sea. We were also fortunate to experience the summer magic of the glowing phosphorus in the ocean surf – just imagine a million miniature lime green glowsticks floating in the crashing waves. Our entire stay was all about letting go and enjoying the simplicity of life at Hotelito. Refreshing.
What is most amazing about our experience at Hotelito is that no matter how short lived, when we returned to “civilization” we felt as though we had escaped to the Edge of Nowhere.
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